Will Greenland Be Tainted By Adventurers Seeking Its Remote Wilderness?

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I am just getting into a rhythm on my first mountain bike ride in Greenland when I nearly slam into a singletrack traffic jam. While pedaling over a slab of rock, the giant Ilulissat Icefjord suddenly appears in front of our group of five riders—who all stop on a dime in front of me, staring in silence. Icebergs, from car-size cubes to massive hunks the length of aircraft carriers, stretch to the horizon in shades of white and blue.

We’ve come to Greenland in September, during the few weeks between mosquito season and winter, with the plan to spend seven days exploring the MTB potential along the country’s west coast. What we’ll quickly realize, though, as we pedal, boat, and fly around, is that this trip is more than scouting: We’re witnessing Greenland’s awkward emergence…

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