April 22, 2008. That’s the date that I officially went into recovery. I know this because it’s the day my daughter was born. It was the day that my surfboard collection changed forever.
When it comes to a surfboard fetish, I had it bad. I was compulsive… an addict even. I’d see a surfboard I like and I simply had to have it. I would sneak new boards in and out of my garage like some kind of polyurethane junkie.
Pro Tip: If you keep all your boards in board bags or board socks your significant other will never know when there’s a new sled on the rack. And if you get all your custom boards painted the same color they’ll never know when you get a new one.
So, in 2008 my daughter was born and, not so…