Big-Wave Legend Shane Dorian Talks Hunting, Surfing, Fatherhood, and More


[This piece was originally published as “Wisdom” in SURFER’s summer 2020 issue, on newsstands now. To subscribe to SURFER, click here.]

It’s totally possible to ride a wave so big and so intense that you just walk away from the sport afterward. I don’t think I could ever do it as dramatically as Greg Noll, but it has occurred to me. Every winter I assess my mindset and wonder if this will be the year I’ll paddle out at Jaws and decide that that’s it, I don’t want anything to do with it anymore. Now that I’ve been out of it for a little bit, I look back at some of the waves I’d ridden at Jaws and Mavs and I’m not sure I’ll ever top them in terms of a personal experience. At some point, I feel like it’s kind of irresponsible and selfish of me to put myself in tons of danger when I really don’t need to anymore. I have a lot of…

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